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Frame painting and Assembly

 

Day 28 and 29 – 5 hrs. 

Yesterday was not a real glamorous day as I was cleaning the Frame and Differential to get them ready for painting. Differential had a oily/greasy and scaly rust on it. Lots of scrubbing and scrapping to get it ready. Came in the next day and everything was clean and dry. Flipped the frame and wiped things down and ready for paint. I painted everything that I could see from the Bottom. Differential got painted top and bottom as I was able to rotate it by having the jack stands at the end. I can paint that area later. I will check everything tomorrow after the paint dries to see if it needs another coat. 

Day 30 – 2 hrs. 

Another great day in the Shop. Owner’s dropped by to help (PS I think I am going to keep them!! Listen to instructions and they get things done!!) Touched up the bottom of the frame, Flipped it and then painted all areas from the top. Once the frame was done, the Upper and lower Control Arms along with the rear Shock mount bar needed a coat of paint as well. This was done in short order and then all we needed to do was “Watch the Paint Dry”. We had some discussion on parts that will be needed soon to keep the project going. I had already picked up some Brake line, mounting bolts for various components and as we were at the shop, I got the delivery of the Steering Column, Fuel pump Module and Brake Booster/master cylinder assembly. Looking above, you may see days that it looks like nothing was done but now we are at a point that it will look like we are making progress. 

Day 31 – 3 hrs. + 1.5 hrs no charge 

Owner dropped by to finish the last few items that needed to be painted. Just need to let them dry and we can start assembling !! I worked on the Fuel tank putting in the in-tank fuel pump. Of course there is no standardization between companies. The fuel tank opening used 14 bolts and the Fuel pump Module uses 16 Bolts. Assembled the fuel pump assembly as per instructions. They supplied the screw type clamps which I do not like so I swapped them for proper fuel clamps. Then I laid the gasket on the tank and drilled out the holes so the pump could be bolted down properly. Vacuumed out all the drill filings and assembled the pump into the tank. Turned out great. After that I installed the rear leaf spring into the frame support on the front. I got Murray to help me put the differential onto the springs on the centering bolts. That was all we could do until all the painted parts are dry. 
Now you will see 1.5 Hrs. at No charge. I jacked the differential and springs up in preparation to install the spring shackles once they are dry. I discovered I had install the brackets backwards. I had to remove them and swap them side to side then reinstall them. Looks like I got Front and Rear mixed up when the frame was upside down. I don’t charge time if it was my fault for the mistake. just the way I do things. 

Day 32 – 2.5 hrs. 

Had some running around to do this morning so I did not get tot he shop until Noon. Looked at all the painted items and thought first to put the shackles on the rear springs. This went quickly and then onto putting the spring Plates on to clamp the axle down. Another quick and easy job. Added the shock mounts and then upper shock bar. Install all the bolts and tightened them on. Just have to install frame mounting bolts for the shock bar. Next onto the front end. Found out they do not recommend to install the coils springs until the frame has most of the weight on it. Mounted the upper and lower control arms. Then installed the spindle to measure the length on the block I could put in there to put the front suspension at about ride height. I can adjust that once we get some weight on the frame. Quickly mounted the Rack and Pinion and installed the tie-rod ends. I can adjust Toe once I have the Rotors on. Short day but now it looks like we are making progress. 

Day 33 – 1.5 hrs

Today was a day for visitors and Murray and I were able to get  a few things accomplished. Waiting for a few parts to get down to some serious construction. First we had to drop the rear end by removing the shackles so we could drill the holes for the bolts to hold the upper shock mounts. Once that was finished, I asked Murray if he could drill the holes for the rear Gas Tank bracket as my first visitor arrived. Once I was done with my first guest, I asked Murray if he had ever packed wheel bearing by hand. He said he heard of it but never done it. Quick instructions and set of Latex Gloves and he was diving into the grease pot. Great Job. While he was doing that I got the rotors out and got the bearing area cleaned. Added some grease, Installed the rear bearing and seal and the rotors went on. Installed the front bearing, seated the bearings, adjusted the tension and locked the nut into place. Added the Dust cap and we were done. Had a good discussion with Murray to start planning ahead for Exhaust (How you want it to sound), Headlights (LED or Standard), Turn Signals, etc. I added a wheel to check fitment and found Bolt Pattern was correct but the Center hole was too small. all good as these are just to roll the chassis around. 

Day 34 – 4 hrs. 

Started the day off by contacting owner to make sure I could increase the size of the center hole on the rims. These are just tires and rims to be used to roll the chassis around and not for road use. Got out the Plasma cutter (Still practicing so don’t comment) Just had to increase hole size so the rims will sit flat with the rotors and axles. Now they bolt on as they should. I had no Lug nuts so decided to get the Spline locks for future use. No use buying 2 sets. After I had the two wheels on the front I decided to take the rear seals and bearings out. Ya that was a struggle but after some heat and a few choice words, they were out. Bearing that were purchased were the wrong ones (My fault – who knew Chevy had 3 different sizes for their 10 bolt rear ends). I looked at the Yoke and thought I should remove that so I could make sure I had the correct seal. Nope that was wrong as well. Stopped on the way home to order all the correct parts. Basically done for the day BUT I wanted to lower the front end so it was sitting on its wheels. First time since Day 12. I just have some blocks to hold up the front and and they do look they maybe slightly short. However is it sitting nice and low. Also looks lower due to the rear of the chassis is raised up. It will be on wheels soon. 

Day 35 – 2.5 hrs. 

The plan for the day was to the bearing and seals in along with the Axles. Also need to add rubber stripping to the fuel tank supports so that we could mount the front support. Murray arrived to help and I got him to add the rubber stripping while I worked on the Differential. Once he had the straps done we installed them on the supports and set the fuel tank in place. Figured out where the front support would be and drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. Removed the Tank and straps so I had clear access to the Differential. Popped the rear cover off the differential and removed the lock pin and pulled out the center pin so the axles could be installed. Installed the clips reassembled the the pin and lock pin, Going to put the rear cover on and found out I got the wrong one. Put the old one on temporarily and then mounted the wheel. Wheels need to be installed backwards as there was too much Positive Offset (here is a link to explain wheel offset – https://wheelsasap.com/What-is-Wheel-Offset/The frame was finally on all four wheels again being supported by the new suspension. Ya Hoo another milestone !! Put the car skates under the wheels, moved the frame out of the way and cleaned out the cab so it could be moved over. It was placed under the block and tackle, strapped on and hoisted up in the air. Frame was then moved under the cab. We added the Motor Mount plate to the Block in preparation for mounting the motor and transmission. This was more than I had planned to do today but with the great help from Murray, it was done quickly and efficiently. Thanks !! 

Day 36 – 3 hrs. 

Goal today was to get the Engine and Transmission sitting in place. Surprisingly this went in with out too much trouble. I placed a 1″ Spacer on the crossmember and then set the pan on it. The transmission was held up with a jack. Then the motor was centered and there is about 4″ of room between the Water Pump pulley and where the radiator will sit. Happy with that !! Then the can was lowered and to my amazement there were only two tight areas. Those were marked off and the transmission area was also opened up. Raised the cab up to allow access to cut the areas out. The owner was very eager to cut his cab apart knowing full well that this would be fixed when it goes for body work. Lowered the cab and a few little adjustments and all good now. Now comes the brain teaser and engineering skills to figure out placement of the mounts. The hardest one will be the drivers side as we are dealing with the steering shaft. I know someone that has built these trucks and going to ask for advice. All in all a Great day !! Thanks to Murray for the Help!! 

Day 37 – 2.5 hrs. 

Went in today for a short day but have been thinking about Motor and Transmission position. Seemed like the Transmission crossmember was hanging about an inch below the frame which we could shim. Decided to see if I raised the transmission up the 1 inch, what would I have to do to the Motor to get the correct 3 degree angle. Moved the transmission into position after raising the cab and placed the trans crossmember so it sat on top of the bottom part of the frame. I put a Jack under the motor and started to raise it up to get the right angle. Surprisingly like the transmission it only required me to move it up 1 inch. Lowered the cab and had to trim a small amount on the passenger side for clearance. Installed the new Differential cover on and put a note to make sure to add Differential Fluid before driving. 
Now I decided to see if I could place the brake system in place as the Body Shop indicated they could have the cab and start on it. I had to trim the floor area to get the foot pedal in a decent position while allowing the booster to be in a spot to clear the Transmission. Going to be a tight fit and will have to look at it more closely.  
Not much going on this week as I am waiting for a friend to drop by to confirm a few items before I proceed. He has built a truck similar to this 54 and there seems to be a lot of items trying to occupy a small area. Stopped by the shop the other day for another reason and looked at the 54. Thought I wonder what it would look like with a BLOWER !! What are your thoughts ?? 
Blower

Day 38 – 4 hrs. 

There has been a slight delay with progress as I am waiting for a friend that has built similar projects to drop by for advice. He has been busy but through some discussions, I shifted the motor slightly to the right (which all manufacturers do as well). Once I did this, it freed some space that I was concerned about. I figured out how long I needed the mount to be cut down but made it longer. Lots of in and out and grinding and trimming to get it to work. I actually screwed up on the left mount BUT I knew the right mount would be shorter so I was OK. Some of the initial pictures show this. However the end result was both mounts in place and clearance OK so they can be welded in. I temporarily spot welded the mounts in place. We are getting a welder to come in and weld them in properly. 
Then the Cab came off so I could check the position of the Transmission since I had moved the engine slightly to the right. Transmission was moved as well. I figured out where the Transmission crossmenber would go and secured it into place. I added some temporary screws to keep the crossmember at the correct angle for now. The supplier provides a bolt to be drilled through and bolted in. My preference will be to weld it in place. This will be all cleaned off so the Welder can weld these areas as well. 
I did connect the steering shaft and it does look like it will fit BUT there is also no Exhaust in place which I am sure will make me add an extra joint in there to get the clearance. Just another hurdle to go over but all the fun of Hot Rodding !!  Installed the Driveshaft to see if the angles were OK. Should be good but may have to go to a smaller diameter driveshaft. I will confirm this when I go to put the driveshaft in. 

Day 39 – 3.5 hrs. 

Cold days in Alberta and I almost did not go in BUT I left a mess and needed to cleanup. Quick clean up after shoveling some snow. Thought while is was here I had better look at the brake booster setup. Lifted the Cab and found the bracket (2″ offset) was sticking out too far and almost touching the transmission. I had to think about this so while I was thinking, I cut the boxing plates behind the Transmission Crossmember and welded them in. Quick and easy job. Note: I should have opened a door and turned on the fan as the smoke created by the welding, caused the Fire Alarm to go off. Turned it off quickly and Telus monitoring phoned and I cancelled the Alarm. Thought I was OK until I heard the fire truck come and the siren shut off outside of my shop. Quick visit by the fire dept. and all was good. By now I figured what I needed to do to mount the Brake booster setup. Make a plate and add some 1″ Spacers. I will have better pictures once I finish it. I took some pictures so the body shop can see how they have to modify the firewall and transmission tunnel to make everything fit properly. Time to go home and stay warm !! 

Day 40 – 1 hr. 

Really quick day at the shop. Murray the owner had arranged to have Dylan drop by the shop and Weld the Mounts and Transmission Crossmember in. I had left the Motor and Transmission in place as I was worried the mounts might move during welding. Dylan assured us this would not be the case. While he was setting up the Motor and Transmission were pulled to provide access to the mounts. Dylan was setup and in short order he had the mounts welded in. Many Thanks for the great service and job well done. Set the motor down on the ground and then left. Now that the mounts are in, the Brake master cylinder can be mounted and brake lines run. NOTE: I had taken some pictures of Dylan in action but somehow the pictures disappeared during the transfer. 

Day 41 – 2 hrs. 

My Grandson was staying at our place for a few days and wanted to go to Grampa’s Shop. We are working on a Dakota project with the Grandkids as well. Spent a couple hours working on the Dakota (not on Murry’s Dime) and hit a point that we needed to stop. Looked at the 54 and now the mounts were in, I could box the frame on the passenger side. Measured and Treyton cut the plate. We put it up to the frame and clamped it in place and then scored the bottom of the plate to match the Frame. Trimmed off the excess and then ground the edges and frame so it was bare metal. Reclamped the plate to the frame and made sure it fit right. Treyton has done some welding with his Dad and other Grand Father. He jumped at the chance to do the welding. I told him to tack the frame on the ends then we had to move the clamps to make sure the center was correct. He welded the ends in and I looked at them and they were great. So I let him continue. Very proud of him when he was complete. Thanks Buddy !! While he was welding the plate to the frame, I worked on a plate to mount the Power Brake system to the frame. I got Treyton to spot weld the spacers to the plate. I then gave it a coat of paint so it will be dry for the next time I am working on it. Since the Mounts and Brakes are mounted, we put the wheels back on and moved the frame out of the way so we could drop the cab onto the dolly and bring it to Jus Cuz Customs next week. They thought they could get the cab to start working on it. 

Day 42 – 5 hrs. 

Now the Motor and Trans are mounted, Cab is off and going to the Body shop this week, I can get back to getting items mounted where they belong. Started the Day off with putting the Fuel tank in place and making up the top straps. I had to make a couple of spacers to tank to sit straight but it turned out great. After the Tanks was done (Note Straps need painting before final assembly), I worked on the brake line from the frame to the differential. Made a couple of brackets and tried different configurations to get the best solution. I had to swing it to the front as if I turned it towards the back, I did not fell confident it would not get hit during suspension travel. All good now with lots of travel. 
Then mounted the Master Cylinder/Brake booster assembly temporarily as I did not have the correct bolts. Figured out where the adjustable Brake proportioning valve would go and made a bracket to mount it to the frame. Once that was done, I ran the rear brake line from the Valve to the rear brake hose. Measured the line, added the rock protection, added the nut and flared the ends. Once it was secured, I added a few straps the secure the line. Now the fun of trying to run the front and rear lines from the Master Cylinder to the Proportioning Valve. Of course this does not go easy as the lines had to run to the opposite holes. For the rear line I was able to make it long enough that it can absorb and vibration created during driving. However the front line if run direct, would have been about 4 inches which would not allow for movement and probably break over time. Therefore I made the line longer and added a coil in the middle to allow it to absorb the vibrations without failure. I really did not have much room but by doing it this way, it also protects everything from being hit by road debris.  Lots done in a short time. 

Day 43 – 2 hrs. 

Short day today as I just had to bring the Cab to Jus Cuz Customs. Mitch asked to have the cab and doors dropped off so they can start working on it in prep for the other body parts. We have had REALLY cold days lately but we got a few days of warm weather (Actually too warm as the roads were slushy). Dropped off the Cab and returned Truck and Trailer to the shop. Note: Disregard Devon Small Engines sign on trailer as I borrowed his trailer to deliver the Cab). 
PXL_20251230_183712981.MP

Day 44 – 4 hrs. * End of 2025

Got to the shop and the plan was to run the front Brake lines. In order to do that, I have to install front brake Calipers and Brackets first. Removed the tires and rims, got out the brackets and Calipers and installed them. Took a little bit as the holes did not seem to line up perfectly but with some slight modification I got them on. Calipers slipped on great and installed the Caliper bolts with some lock tight to prevent them coming lose. Next I had to run the brake hoses so I could figure out where to mount the retainer tab on the frame. I may have to replace these brake lines with another pair as UNIVERSAL sometimes do not fit. OK for now but I am concerned they will contact the springs once they are installed. Now to run the Brake lines. Installed the Tee first and then figured out the brake lines from there. Seems the hardest one to do was the Shortest line. LOL !! First made it too short, then installed the wrong fitting but after three tries I got it !! Ran the other line to the right side then the one from the Proportioning valve to the Tee. Took out the master cylinder to give me access to the valve and so I could tighten the lines and mount the Valve securely to the frame. Go to put some bolts in place and found the guy at the bolt place gave me course bolts with FINE threaded lock nuts. AARRGGHH !! Done for today !! 

Day 45 – 3 hrs. 

Another great day in the shop. It looks like I did lots again but all quick and easy jobs. First off, I stuck the Motor and Trans back in. Fit like a Glove. All the mounts lined up and still at the correct angle. Basically took about 20 minutes. Then Decided to run the Fuel line. Since the Intake is going to be changed, I only needed to run a Single line. I used the 99 to 04 Corvette Fuel Filter which has a 58 PSI regulator built in. Installed all the AN fittings on the lines as required. Added Clamps to make this all look neat and clean. 
I am still waiting for some parts for the rear brakes and the New Wire Harness. So while I was in a slight holding pattern, I thought I would lay out the Engine/Transmission harness I had built by Cory Lim in Beaumont to see how everything will lay. Remember you have a Dodge Mechanic working on a Chevy. I know where most of the plugs where they went BUT found out the Cam and the Crank sensor both use the same connectors. Weird !! I have all the Sensor, coils and injectors connector in place. Trans wiring looks correct but I have a few questions for Cory to confirm everything. Also checked the Driveshaft length and it looks like a 50″ shaft will do. The big aluminum one I got with the Transmission will not work. Need something smaller diameter. Will be a good conversation with the Driveline shop. 

Day 46 – 1 hrs. 

I thought I could do more with the parts I had BUT found out I could not. Put the tires back on the front. Dropped it on it wheels, installed the tire skates and spun the frame around. Working on the back now. I installed the rear brake caliper hoses and then was going to make up the lines. AARRGGH !! No Fittings left and short on Brake line Rock Guard. Definitely need it in that area. Ordered the parts and done for the day !! 

Day 47 – 3.5 hrs. 

More Parts Showed up !! Especially the WIRE HARNESS by American AutoWire. Lots of fun now !! Due to the way this vehicle will be done, I am making separate harnesses for rear part so it can be run inside the frame and not interfere when it is at the body shop. Made up the rear harness, installed shielded conduit, taped it and ran it inside the frame. Then I secured it all along the way. The rest will will take some integration with the Engine wire harness. 
I am still waiting for some brake parts but I borrowed a few parts to finish the rear Brake lines. Some measuring, cutting, flaring, adding ends and Rock guard to make up the lines. Bent it to fit and secured the nuts to the hoses. Turned out not bad.  When I get the parts in I will replace what I borrowed. Another day but that will either be Brakes or Wiring. 

Day 48 – 3 hrs. 

I got all the rear brake components in so I finished them off. Installed the Emergency brake shoes with new hardware and then the Rotors. Installed the caliper support brackets, brake pads and then Calipers. Attached the rear brake hoses with new banjo bolts and copper washers. All ready for bleeding the brake system. 
Then I looked around and saw some of the wiring will need to be customized to my liking. I could to the transmission wire harness for now. Took about two feet out of the wiring. All crimped with seamless butt connectors and heat shrink to seal the moisture out. Then taped it all up. Looks way better. 

Day 49 – 1.5 hrs. 

I had looked at the Driveshaft a few times and discovered I needed a 50″ Driveshaft. I can take the shaft I got with the Transmission shortened BUT it was way too fat to work. Therefore I had to find another alternative. I am doing another project with my Grand Kids (17 and  15), a 97 Dakota that we are putting a Hemi in it. I know I will need to shorten that Driveshaft. I thought, lets see how it fits. Well low and behold it is exactly 50″s long. Now I need to swap the Transmission Input yoke from the Chevy to the Dodge driveshaft. This took some research but the Chevy and Dodge U-Joint caps are exactly the same for the rear. The front U-joint actually has two different cap sizes and length. However one side fitted the Chevy Yoke and the other fit the Dodge Driveshaft. SCORE !! I got the U-joints and really it took me less then an hour to swap things over and everything fit perfectly!!! 
After the Driveshaft was done, I looked and the next thing to do is to finish painting the frame in the areas that were boxed, motor mounts and brake line brackets. Best would be to pull the Motor and trans as it will give more access to do a good job. That was done in 15 min. 

Day 50 – 1.5 hrs. 

I went in as I needed to finish painting the frame area that I welded in some boxing plates and tabs for the Brake lines. Took the brake lines out of the tabs and moved the lines away to paint. Lifted the frame up as it made it easier for an Old Guy!! Gave everything a good coat including the Fuel tank straps. No use standing around and watch Paint Dry !! Done for the day. Next time I come in, all will be dry. 

Day 51 – 4 hrs. 

Went in and everything was dry. Now I needed to put the Engine back in as I got some other parts that I needed to see how things fit. Good thing is it only takes about 15 minutes to put the motor in or out. Once it was in, it was time to check the fit of the Headers. Yup, nice shiny Chrome headers. Left side fits great. Lots of room as I previously mentioned that I shifted the motor to the right by 3/4″. First thing I checked was to make sure there was no interference with the brake linkage. No issues with the headers and miss the head by about 1/2″. Awesome !! Now to the right side. Set the header in and just holding it in place, it looks like it will need some modification or adjustment to some areas to provide some clearance. Fun and Games when you are building a Hot Rod !! 
Now the headers are in place, I decided to see if I could make a brace for the steering shaft support. Look at it and came up with a plan after some measurements. Found some 1/4″ plate and drew out the design and cut it out. Drilled the hole for the steering shaft support. Put the bracket on the support and played around with positions but ultimately that will have to wait until the cab and the frame come back together. 
I was talking with one of the workers in the back of the shop and he was looking at the rims that are mounted on the back. Discussion ended up that there were a set of rims sitting in the shop that were 15″ X 8″ with a 5 X 4.75″ Bolt Pattern. Did some testing as these have the wrong backspacing but I was able to do some measuring. I figure a 17″ X 8″ rim with Zero Offset will work for the rear. Fronts may want to go with a 17″ X 7″ rim. 
Had some time so back after the wiring. Laid the harness onto the engine and ended up cutting all the temporary tape off the harness so I could reposition the wiring to suit this build. Found some of the wiring is way too long and I am contacting Cory to see what the best option is. Also the O2 connector does not match the connector for the 2003  5.3L LS. Both are Female connectors and therefore will not plug in. Again another Cory question. 

Days 52 and 53 – 4 hrs. 

I got the Flowmaster 2.5″ Exhaust system and thought I would tackle some of it until the decision of the right muffler to put on it. Of course to start it off, you have to start with the most difficult. Headers came with a V-Clamp flange and a small extension piece. I had to figure out the angle to mate together and at the right angle. After some Trial and Error, I discovered I just need to adjust the length of the 45 degree tubes. Once I trimmed and trimmed, I finally got the length I needed. Welding the two pieces together proved to be quite the challenge and one was 16 Gauge Aluminized Mild Steel and the other was chrome cover and a lot thinner. Practiced welding on a scrap piece so I could get the wire feed and heat close. My setting was great for the 16 gauge but a little hot for the thinner metal. Some more Trial and I got it so the two pieces were welded together. Kept checking with a light to make sure it was sealed all the way around. Set the tub in place and found the angle slightly off but that was easily fixed by adding a cut into the top side half way down and then welding it together. Figured out where the O2 sensor bung needed to go and drilled the hole then welded in place. Don’t look close at the welds as I am definitely not a Pro. The other side took me way less time as I know knew what I needed to do. Welding went a lot faster with one small burn through. Mounted both pipes and added the next extension piece and both sides are very close. You can see where the balance tube will go. I will place that once I know where the mufflers will sit.